But the production itself is only one piece of the puzzle. And there are two major reasons why: Rayon was invented over 150 years ago, and was widely commercially produced starting in the 1920s. The environmental impact of wool. Aside from Fair-trade, these are the standards/labels to look for. In addition, there are filters and recycling facilities that purify most of the chemicals. Due to this, viscose fabric can mimic the texture and softness of natural materials such as cotton, silk, linen, or even wool. And while this material is natural, the process of making it into fibers involves a lot of toxic chemicals, therefore it is in its own subcategory of being a semi-synthetic fibre. 70 million trees from Indonesia, Canada, and Brazil, The way it’s made (often with toxic chemicals), and…. Cellulose is a … These aren’t rogue factories. And as long as the producers follow the rules you get a 100% biodegradable item. I’ve heard from someone who was on the social responsibility team at a large fashion company that those emails get forwarded to them, and they use them to present their case for sustainability to the executive team. They adopted the goals of the Kyoto Protocol in 2002 and passed the country's first CO2 tax in 2006. So far, the article has established that viscose can be superior to other man-made made textiles and even some natural fibers. That part may be 'green,' but the chemical used to make the viscose isn’t. There’s no way to know as a consumer where your modal clothing is coming from – Asia or North America. If a brand wants to get an environmentally benign fabric, viscose can be produced with the Lyocell process. ENVIRONMENT. If a fibre is manufactured, then it is made from cellulose or protein. But I’m here to try to clear this up for you. There are different grades and types of viscose as per its functional properties. This sustainable fabric is made out of recycled wood pulp which is then treated with chemicals with minimal waste… Just kidding! For something to be truly bamboo fiber, it has to be mechanically processed and woven, yielding a stiff linen. Cheap polyester is probably the biggest offender when it comes to the high environmental cost of fashion. This post originally appeared on Tortoise and Lady Grey, a fashion and lifestyle blog which aims to promote ethical and sustainable wardrobe choices, and inspire readers to embrace a slow fashion lifestyle.. Polyester is cheap and versatile and for that reason it has become ubiquitous in fashion, but the environmental impacts of polyester are also significant. Once the solution is obtained, virgin viscose goes into a spinneret and into a sulphuric acid bath to regenerate fine cellulose filaments. Anyway, the workers who are involved in the process are important as well. In India, a plant is dumping into a tributary to the Ganges, poisoning local families, causing the mental faculties of children to degenerate before they reach their teens. As for bamboo rayon, when I asked White Rabbit about their bamboo lingerie, co-founder Mariana Hernandez said, “Our supplier’s manufacturing process is green and without any pollution. If these companies pull through, that will make 80% of all rayon fabrics rainforest-free. Is it better for the environment compared to other man-made fabrics? And tragically, the typical process for dissolving pulp for rayon wastes about 70% of the tree! It’s worse than the much-demonized cotton, using more fresh water, causing more water pollution, and emitting more greenhouse gases. In this guide, we look at whether Viscose is eco friendly or sustainable for use in products like clothing, fabric and textiles. Cotton, flaxseed, and hemp are already a fairly soft, fibrous plants – they have to be minimally ginned and woven before being sewn into garments, and are considered natural fibers. The great thing is that manufacturing preserves the cellulose molecular structure. Rayon (Viscose) © pixabay.com, © depositphotos.com. It’s a toxic chemical called carbon disulfide." It’s important to think beyond just your own purchasing decisions, to consider how you can help change the system so that sustainability isn’t the elitist choice, but the default. VISCOSE’S IMPACT ON LIFESTYLE: Durability: Versatility: soft and absorbent fabric, feels supple and soft Affordability: Viscose is . This fabric is very bad for the environment and can cause breast cancer in women. Polyvinyl chloride – PVC – is the most toxic plastic for our health and it’s not so good for the environment either. Viscose comes from trees, but it is not as environmentally as other types of rayon, such as modal, because the production process uses high concentrations of chemicals. Residents are passionate about protecting the environment and like to do things their own way. I just knew that something was up with rayon viscose that made it a poor choice for a brand like Eileen Fisher, which is trying to reduce its negative impact on the environment. Soft and lightweight, viscose fabric is a fixture of many wardrobes and homes and has been in use since the late 1800s. What is cellulose? It’s so unstable that it can even cause an explosion while the item is being made. Are you going to try to avoid it in the future? The real cost of your clothes: These are the fabrics with the best and worst environmental impact. The login page will open in a new tab. This is one of the issues closed-cycle production deals with, at least in developed countries. First, it’s … This report, however, is a bit unfair, because these links were established mostly through the brands’ voluntary disclosure of their supply chain. Pinterest. Tencel (a branded type of lyocell) is the type of rayon that is the most eco-friendly. But rayon (also known as viscose – they are the same thing and are used interchangeably) is not a natural fiber. (Lenzing is rather vague on this point, though apparently Lenzing as a whole has the Pan-European Forest Certification.) This sounds great, but what is viscose? However, there is another problem with modal, lyocell, and rayon that we need to discuss…. So, modal production is technically bad for the environment but given that the chemicals are reused instead of being released into the environment, the process is thought of as eco-friendly. If you have a choice between the manmade cellulosic fibers rayon, viscose, lyocell, modal, or Tencel, buy Tencel. Our grandparents were clothed in natural materials such as wool, linen and cotton and in fact, by the end of World World II, the latter accounted for over 80% of fibre consumed.With chemical advances in the Just keep in mind, Tencel has a certain feel and look, and can’t replace all of viscose rayon’s uses. Therefore, it may be considered less environment-friendly. See lifestyle benefits and risks; whether viscose fabric is good or bad for affordability, durability and versatility. August 31, 2020 December 30, 2018 by Better Meets Reality Viscose can be a broadly used term, so, it makes sense that you might be unsure of what viscose is and the impact it has on the environment and on sustainability. And now that is also happening because of rayon. These tough plant materials are broken down through a chemical and mechanical process involving sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide into a viscous (ah, that’s where that name viscose came from) liquid, that is then spun into threads using sulfuric acid. Polyvinyl Chloride, more commonly known as PVC or just vinyl, has been in widespread usage since the early-mid 20th century. Cellulosic fiber is an umbrella term for anything made from plants, which includes cotton, linen (flax seed), hemp, rayon (a.k.a. Lenzing bills their trademarked Lenzing Modal as a more eco-friendly and softer version of rayon, because it uses closed-loop processing that doesn’t output toxins into the environment and sources beechwood from nearby the factory. But this doesn’t necessarily make viscose bad for the environment. First and foremost, factories need to make sure there’s no way a worker could come in contact with any of the toxic materials. Palm oil, if you don’t know, is an extremely destructive food and beauty ingredient. According to the Higg Index, silk has by far the worst impact on the environment of any textile, including polyester, viscose/rayon, and lyocell. Most prominently, it’s used for clothing because it has properties similar to silk and cotton. Manufacturing facilities may be required to provide certificates for the raw materials and there are tests that may determine if the woodstock fits the right criteria. It’s true many of these fibers can be considered natural, they are made from wood and grass. Estimates show that the revenue from viscose production is going to exceed the $15,100 million mark by 2023. Being one of the most popular man-made materials, viscose has been one of the main staples of the fashion industry. That’s what is happening in Asia, according to a report that came out on Tuesday by the Changing Markets Foundation. In China, there’s abundant evidence of rayon production is poisoning workers and the local bodies of water, even turning a lake black. That is why these fibers are often marketed as eco-friendly. Please log in again. In Indonesia, rayon factory workers have been found washing the chemicals off of rayon textiles right in the river. See if viscose textiles are good or bad for the environment; is a natural or synthetic/manmade fiber, … "No," I reassure at this point. There is also some interesting innovation in the works to shift the raw material away from forests altogether. It actually might be worse for the environment. Fiber source: semi-synthetic, viscose is a semi-synthetic material, it is derived from the wood pulp from fast-growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech and pine, as well as plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane, cellulose material is dissolved in a chemical solution Biodegradable: yes, viscose is biodegradable and Lenzing Viscose® is biodegradable Is Viscose Material Good Or Bad? But I went through my favorite retail stores and brands to pick out some beautiful and sustainable Tencel pieces. In addition to health and safety, a truly environmentally-friendly viscose is produced without worker exploitation. In the rug industry, this is presented as Viscose, Bamboo Silk, Banana Silk, Rayon or “Art” Silk. Either way, leave me a quick comment below to let me know. It’s also why there are no rayon producers in the U.S. It’s (almost always, more on this later) too toxic to comply with the EPA’s standards – workers are at high risk of insanity, nerve damage, heart disease, and stroke. To explain, the chemicals are captured at the end of the production cycle and then reused for the next batch. “I have a background in Supply Chain and Quality Compliance so it was important for me to ensure that the supplier we chose abided by international safety standards.” Their supplier uses three to four-year-old bamboo trees from the Yunnan province in China. No wonder, modern rayon is a high-performing, quality fabric, with excellent feel, durability, and drape. Viscose and Viscose Rayon is *Vegan. When I visited the Green Eileen pop-up (now Fisher Found) the old viscose shirts and pants that came back in through donations had held up remarkably well, and were easy to upcycle into new garments. As you can see, quite a few chemicals are used during the production process. These rugs are blends of “regenerative cellulose” (wood pulp fibers and cotton by products) and chemicals. See whether animals are killed, harmed or indirectly impacted. There is no way to recycle the chemicals that end up in the soil or the plant as it grows in the fields. Let’s pass on this one. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. What about the toxicity of rayon production? Nine out of the ten top rayon manufactures have made the same pledge to not source material from mills that contribute to deforestation. I will also refer to the practices of one company – Lenzing AG of Germany – an innovative leader in fiber development and environmental protection. You’ll easily find it in all sorts of fashion. Branding by Idil Berken. Just kidding! However, the process used to produce these fabrics is highly toxic and chemically saturated. When it comes to viscose fiber, where the raw materials come from goes a long way in determining its environmental impact. Along with making the air and water toxic for humans, viscose production also encourages rapid deforestation across the planet. If you’ve decided to swear off polyester because it’s a petroleum product, you might be pleased to know that you can buy clothing made with rayon viscose, a high-performance fabric that is made of a natural, renewable resource: plants. The solution is viscose, which means it oozes rather than flows, hence the name of the material. Eileen Fisher has reduced its use of rayon and does offer some Tencel products, but still relies on viscose for a lot of its clothing. So, these emails make a difference. Viscose, touted as a sustainable alternative to cotton or polyester, is often used as a cheaper and more durable alternative to silk, commonly in skirts and dresses. Without a doubt, laws, standards, and cutting edge technologies help make viscose more environmentally friendly. All Rights Reserved. almost always needs to be dry cleaned. Email your favorite brand who uses rayon viscose and ask them what they are doing to phase it out or clean up their supply chain. However, like any other fabric, viscose isn’t without its disadvantages. They’re both in the conceptual stage, but will be tested over the next year or so. The work environment needs to be friendly to those who are part of the production. Without going into all the technicalities, this chemical may cause a pH effect which can be toxic for underwater organisms such as fish. I’d better go through my wardrobe!" Modal‘s production isn’t as toxic but can still lead to deforestation. To put things in perspective, modal is one of the rayon iterations that received a lot of bad press because manufacturers used unsustainable raw materials. This significantly reduces the demand for the chemical and minimizes sulfur emissions. Rayon is made from plants, but it’s not eco-friendly because of its toxic production and the deforestation associated with it. But it has come under fire repeatedly for being misrepresented. Additionally, Honest Lifestyle participates in various other affiliate programs, and we sometimes get a commission through purchases made through our links at no additional cost to you. It is a low-cost fabric that serves as a great alternative for the very-expensive silk and chemically resembles cotton. Shop with confidence! On a side note, cotton production usually requires a lot of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, as well as water. And there are two major reasons why: But the truth is that they can be harmful to the environment, eco-systems, and human health. It’s biodegradable, too! Afterward, carbon disulphide is introduced into the mix and helps form cellulose xanthate. Rainforests are being burned and cleared in Indonesia and elsewhere in order to plant palm oil plantations. Two recipients of H&M’s Changemakers award are trying to turn waste products that have cellulose in them – cow manure and grape leaves – into textiles. One fabric that is often marketed as inherently eco-friendly is bamboo, because it grows quickly without use of pesticides or herbicides. (Rayon has been washed multiple times and is safe by the time it reaches consumers.). Rayon is a generic term for fabrics that are made from plants that you could never imagine as soft, silky fabric: bamboo and trees. Eileen Fisher has used it for years. Because it readily absorbs water and body oils, this could be a problem and lead to discoloring and marking, making it dirtier and weaker. … If you care enough to purchase Tencel instead of other semi-synthetic fibers, then you should also: © 2020 Ecocult. Rayon is a fiber that is made from cellulose … Lenzing manufactures more cellulosic fiber from trees than any other company in the world and has been producing rayon/viscose, the … Elisa Allen | 12th March 2019. This is then pushed through a spinneret, and “spun” into the fibres that can then be made into threads and fabrics. Photo Credit: REUTERS / Mohamed Azakir. This is not isolated to the viscose industry and it’s largely based on the use of closed-loop manufacturing. Tencel, a trademarked fabric also by Lenzing, is a type of rayon generically called lyocell. Cellulose xanthate is actually a yellowish crumb that appears on the surface and manufacturers use caustic soda to dissolve it. If you were to inspect the fabric, viscose is produced from purified cellulose. Viscose is a fabric that has gained much popularity as a sustainable fabric made of regenerated cellulose. There is hope. There have been environmental concerns associated with viscose, but generally that’s the case with every fabric (both natural and man-made), and today the processes involved with most modern ‘versions’ tend to be considered eco-friendly. Tencel is silky soft and absorbent, and is produced using a different chemical – amine oxide – that is purported to be safer in an entirely closed loop process, so that the chemical isn’t discharged into the water. While it does come with its own benefits, consumers may be concerned about both its limitations, as well as its impact on the environment. This chemical-heavy, industrial process is why it is considered a semi-synthetic fiber. It’s biodegradable, too! It has become more and more popular – the global output of viscose rayon is projected to reach $16 billion per year by 2021. Unlike, viscose rayon where chemicals build up with no place to go, the modal system reuses all the chemicals again and again. To achieve this, manufacturers adhere to ethical and Fair-trade production standards. Another important thing is where and how the raw material is obtained. This is the category that holds the majority of the skin-harming culprits. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. The silver lining is that contemporary technologies and production standards allow for better carbon disulfide management. Then there is a waiting period to properly age the pulp and depolymerization occurs during the pulp ripening stage. Viscose: Pollution Concerns Being the first chemical introduced into the mix, caustic soda can be dangerous for the environment . Copyright text 2020 by Honest Lifestyle. Synthetic Fabrics. Without going into all the technicalities, this chemical may cause a pH effect which can be toxic for underwater organisms such as fish. For bamboo, forests in China are being logged and replaced with bamboo plantations, in order to supply more bamboo for bamboo rayon. (Lyocell is to Tencel as tissue is to Kleenex.) For the most part, viscose has been immune to this, but it doesn’t mean suppliers should go out and cut forests to make viscose. Being the first chemical introduced into the mix, caustic soda can be dangerous for the environment. They are OEKO-Tex certified and manufactured in accordance with ISO-9000 and ISO-14001.” (These are international safety and environmental standards that I personally trust.) (A more accurate term would be to call them manmade cellulosic fibers.) Neither do we think of its origin nor its manufacturing and the toxic load on our body and in the environment. Instead of carbon disulfide, Lyocell utilizes N-methylmorpholine N-oxide because it helps minimize waste and it’s more gentle onto the environment. Viscose is cheap to produce and is a versatile fabric used for clothing items such as blouses, dresses, … Viscose is the same thing as rayon. VISCOSE/RAYON: Viscose is made from cellulose from wood pulp. And because of the high concentration of the rayon industry – 75% of it is dominated by 10 companies– you can be almost positive that any conventional brand you can think of sources their rayon from the same dirty factories. First, let’s talk about cellulosic fibers. Once you have a factory dumping these chemicals into the waterway, the whole community can be poisoned. And that’s inside the factory. This happens during the xanthate decomposition and the raw material is then purified to get the filament or fabric. Far from being an eco-friendly material, wool is a nightmare for the living planet. As this is an ongoing process, viscose and other textile manufacturers may undergo an audit to determine they follow the rules to the T. That said, China has a more than 60% market share in viscose production and the country has been notorious for its contribution to global pollution. After logging in you can close it and return to this page. "Does that mean viscose isn’t safe to wear? Bamboo rayon is most commonly made through what is known as the viscose process, which involves dissolving cellulose material (in this case, bamboo) in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance. Other manmade fabrics to avoid include modal, tencel, loycell, viscose and most types of bamboo. Tobias Schultz, director of research and development at SCS, who headed up the certification … There’s a fabric for that. To manufacture viscose, factories grind up cellulose and mix it with caustic soda. The following sections aim to provide answers to these questions to help you make a more educated sustainable fashion selection. It actually might be worse for the environment. More than 70 million trees from Indonesia, Canada, and Brazil are logged every year and turned into cellulosic fabric. Surprisingly, despite being obtained from a natural source, the fabric of viscose actually contributes to polluting and harming the environment. In Indonesia, endangered animals and native people are being forced off the land, so that the local pulp mills can be steadily supplied with trees. Not only is the production of this textile toxic for the environment, it makes … But I remember one of the designers looking at it ruefully and saying, “We’re trying to figure out an alternative.” At the time, I didn’t fully understand why. Wikimedia. There’s also modal, a type of rayon. That’s according to a recent Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) study completed by SCS Global Services on behalf of Stella McCartney, focusing on the production of viscose fiber. It means none of the chemicals leave the factory and if they do, the discharge needs to be 100% save for the environment. It is a type of rayon since it usually comes from agricultural products and wood. Tencel use isn’t confined to expressly sustainable fashion brands. "It’s only the workers who make it that suffer, and maybe the surrounding environment." Modal, that non-toxic viscose/rayon fabric, is made from different types of softwood, which is great if it’s sourced from well-managed European or North American forests. The whole concept of rayon viscose seems deliberately designed to confuse consumers so much that we just give up and stop caring. If you’ve decided to swear off polyester because it’s a petroleum product, you might be pleased to know that you can buy clothing made with rayon viscose, a high-performance fabric that is made of a natural, renewable resource: plants. Fast-growing eucalyptus tree varieties are native to almost every continent and climate, and require less land and – often on land that couldn’t otherwise be farmed – than the equivalent amount of cotton. They’re part of large rayon brands, and provide fabric directly to Levi’s, ASOS, Zara, United Colors of Benetton, H&M, and Eileen Fisher. But global NGOs and other countries are pushing hard for higher standards and there are Chinese manufactures that follow suit. And it’s worth noting that Fair-trade is one of the most comprehensive certificates that encompasses all production aspects. Making Fashion is an Environmental Disaster. How the plants are sourced (often in a way that destroys old-growth rainforests). I ’ m here to try to clear this up for you production cycle and then for. Cellulose often derived from wood and grass, we look at whether viscose is produced from cellulose. Processed and woven, yielding a stiff linen the planet headed up the …! Viscose more environmentally friendly often in a new tab but rayon ( also known as viscose, or., we look at whether viscose fabric is very bad for Affordability, durability, and cutting technologies! 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